The silk of Kashmir was thought of as something that could be compared to the best in the world. The yarn made its way through the capitals of Europe, palaces of the Middle East, and beyond. For as long as a century it clothed the rich and mighty in a sartorial elegance that won all-around praise for the silk yarn reeled in the Kashmir valley. Then in 1988 the rustle of silk could no longer be heard as the units in which the silk yarn was made became unviable to run. The successive governments had given employment in the silk-producing factories to too many people, and then the outbreak of anti-government demonstrations and the brute response to it finally sunk the silk industry of Kashmir.
But 2018 might mark as the beginning of the revival of this industry in the Kashmir valley. Standing under big chinar trees on a big plot of land in Solina, the old Rambagh Silk filature is back in the business of reeling silk yarn.
It was in 1988, the filatures bought from European countries last reeled silk yarns. The Lotus variety of raw silk produced in Kashmir was comparable to the “classical” variant of Italy and “petit extra” of France and was in high demand throughout the world. Since 1988, filatures in the unit were gathering dust
Now, after three decades, Industries and Commerce department under the leadership of commissioner secretary, Shailendra Kumar, is leading a process of the revival of the historic silk factory of Rambagh.
The approach to resurrect an old tradition in Kashmir is very gradual and cautious. The officials, instead of burdening the revival process by employing staff, have brought workers from Malda who apart from working will also pass on the craft of silk reeling to locals.
“It is a strategic decision to hire workers on contract basis. Over-employment played a significant role in its downfall. We don’t want to burden it again so workers are hired on commercial lines. If they work more they will get more return,” says managing director, Jammu and Kashmir Industries limited, Javid Iqbal who is overseeing the revival of factory.
He said the World Bank aid of Rs 12 crore, besides support from the central silk board helped in bringing the industry back into life. “In next two months we are going to double the production of the unit. We are going to procure cocoons then convert them into yarns at Rambagh filature which will be then converted into final product at Silk factory Rajbagh.”
“We have been working on its revival for the past two years with a view to give a new direction and impetus to the silk sector. Through these measures the government envisages an annual production of around 10 lakhs meters of silk fabric utilizing around 2.5 lakh kgs of silk yarn reeled locally. Further the Department plans to improve the marketing network by sale of the finished silk products,” said commissioner secretary, Industries and commerce, Shailendra Kumar.
“To boost the exports of silk from the state, the Department has also initiated the revitalization of the Silk Export Centre at New Delhi.”
“I am confident that given the rich background and the tremendous potential and opportunities which the sector offers the state can reclaim and resurrect it’s past glory and establish itself as the champion of silk sector both at national and international level,” he said
Silk factory was established in 1897 with the help of Sir Thomas Wardle, President, Silk Association of Great Britain, who was impressed by the high quality of silk yarn of Kashmir.
In the year 1897 the Directorate of Sericulture was established under the Directorship of C W Walton who had enough experience in sericulture. Improved variety of Silk seeds were imported from Italy and were distributed free of cost to the rearers and the cocoons were sent to England for reeling and weaving.
In 1898 two filatures were erected at Rambagh, Srinagar and these increased from time to time. By 1907 eight filatures had been setup which were providing direct employment to around 5000 people and was considered as one of the largest concern of its kind.
The Silk industry by 1909 offered employment to 60,000 people and silk worth 10,000 pounds was produced. The profits of industry went up from 3.06 lakhs in 1902 to 12.5 lakhs in 1919. Hydro-electric power was used in reeling silk in 1908. Subsequently, the Raj Bagh Silk Factory was set up in 1937. By 1942 Kashmir had the largest Silk Factory in the world. It produced the finest silk in India and its silk was selling throughout British Empire.