The 2,000-crore Pashmina industry occupies a substantialplace in the economy of Kashmir. Around 2 lakh people are involved in thiscraft, Kashmir Pashmina has a prominent position in regard to export andforeign exchange earnings. However, overthe past two decades, machine made and mixed pashmina manufactured in andoutside state, and in countries like China is being sold in the name of KashmirPashmina. Such practices have proved detrimental to the reputation of thiscraft, and to the livelihood of 2 lakh artisans. Facts and figures indicatethat Kashmir handicrafts face intense competition from machine made look-alikeand imitations that flooded the domestic and international markets. Thepashmina material is very delicate and is considered too fragile for the forceof power loom. It is only possible when 40% to 50% nylon is mixed with Pashminafibre which strengthens the thread. After weaving, it is put in to 22%hydrochloric acid (HCL) which dissolves the nylon, after which it is treatedwith softeners to give it a perfect pashmina look.
In order to preserve the centuries old art of spinning andweaving of genuine pashmina fabric and to maintain international standard, theWorld Trade Organisation (WTO) has established a quality mark for genuinePashmina known as Geographical Indication mark (GI). GI is a name or sign usedon certain unique products that corresponds to a specific geographical locationor origin (e.g. a town, region, or country). The use of a GeographicalIndication may act as a certification that the product possesses certain uniquequalities not found elsewhere and is made according to traditional methods.Hence the GI Act was passed as a part of exercise to save the indigenous artand craft of the area in compliance to Article 22 of TRIPS (Trade-RelatedAspects of Intellectual Property Rights)
Eventually Craft development Institute, Srinagar Kashmircame up with nanotechnology based testing laboratory which has helped toidentify real Pashmina. The institute has established Pashmina Testing andQuality Certification Centre (PTQCC) wherein each handmade craft is tested andfixed with a unique label, that certifies the genuineness and authenticity ofthe handicraft product. The label contains both overt and covert information asmandated by the GI registration. “It confirms that the wool is from Ladakh’sPashmina goat (Capra Hircus); its fibres are less than 16 micron in thickness;it is hand-spun and hand-woven. It also contains information about the artisanwho has woven it along with his contact details.
The move has aroused a ray of hope in artisans, and most ofthem prefer to sell certified products. Despite having a geographicalindications (GI) tag, fake and machine-made shawls are abundance in the market.There isn’t enough awareness about this technology among the masses.Nevertheless Government has not taken any strong initiative of marking ofgenuine Pashmina. It badly lacks awareness among the masses who are customersof Pashmina and are fooled to buy fake fabric in name and cost of genuinePashmina. The customer base needs awareness about GI marking like it’s done forgold hallmarking and genuineness certification of diamonds. Government andhandicraft organisations should launch an extensive advertising campaign (printand electronic media) at national & international level in this regard.Without proper awareness customers will continue to be cheated with fake fabricand real results of GI marking Initiative will be forfeited.
Ehsaas International, a social organisation in associationwith Zakat Foundation of India led by Dr. Syed Zafar Mahmod (former OSD toPrime Minister of India) took an initiative to rehabilitate the Pashmina craftand its artisans. In the first Phase 120 artisans (spinners/weaver) were takenon board by providing them raw material to manufacture genuine pashmina thatcan be GI marked. Further the same product is offered to customers for sale viaan e-commerce website thereby giving market to their finished productsworldwide and distribute the earned profit to artisans providing them theirrightful remunerations that they deserve. This project will be a model ofEntrepreneurial Philanthropy aimed at an effort to revive the economy anduplift the poor artisans. Ehsaas has come out with e-commerce websitewww.shop.ehsaasinternational.com to start up initiative with the aim to revivethe century old craft and rehabilitate the craftsmen. This will rehabilitatethe art and the artisans who are living in drudgery and pity by being paidpeanuts for the craft they create. It will also help to bring genuine handmade,world’s most luxurious, Geographical Indication (GI) labelled ‘KashmirPashmina’, fabric and its products into the international market without anymiddleman-ship.
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