Part I|My Sopore, My El Dorado

Interruptions in my stay at my home town and nostalgiastirred me to pen down my profound feelings. I don’t intend to cull notes fromthe history of town instead wish to relive what I miss.

Diyaare gair mein muharam agar nahin koi

   

Toa Faiz zikre watan apney roobaru hi sahi

Sopore town has earned sobriquets of “Chota London”, “ZindaDilane Sopore”. But despite being strategically located it’s either beenan eye sore or looked askance at. It reminds me of Voltaire: “It isdangerous to be right when the Government is wrong”.

Jamile Easth Uroose Jehan Waale Hashdar Ki Ein MakhaddarahDar Atad Kise Nami Aayad

(Bride is beautiful, but weds none)

The feeling of neglect is palpable. Lack of effectivemainstream politicians from time to time, limited representations inbureaucracy/judiciary particularly at the higher levels, except for late Sharifud Din Malik Sahib,  seem to stifle thevoices of the area. However, the intentions and role of late Kar Sahib wereclouded under his party affiliation. D.P. Dhar Hospital, Congress Yateem Trustin particular will remain his forte. Enigmatic Sofi Muhammad Akbar, S.A.Geelani with a gift of gab have had deep impact on politics of the town; theinfluence of the latter, however widened.The Annual Session of NationalConference, then the only representative party of Kashmiris, had been held inthe town in September 1944 for approval of new manifesto. The town, in spite ofall these odds, excelled remarkably in professional fields like medicine,engineering, agriculture. The town dispelled the notion that those residingaround main market can’t make to higher positions as most of the eminentprofessionals came from these areas.

Some landmarks, and some personalities, have and will remainlinked to Sopore –  ReveredKhanqa-i-Maula, Jamia Masjid, Shah Darga Sahib, Tulbul Shrine, Rahim Sahib,Lala Bab Sahib. Likewise Haba Sahib Hath Langoo, Ahad Sahib, Raja Moj, LassiSahib were crowd pullers though not without controversies.

Khawja Samad Pandith’s name continues to remain synonymouswith the town. The ideas of present entrepreneurs were not missing in him evenat that time. Cinema Theatre, juice factory in collaboration with Mohan Meakins(present public private partnership mode), state-of-art workshop/ petrol pump,and mills were not only the symbols of economic activities but the soleemployment source for the poor. Anecdotes associated with him and Late GhulamNabi Toogu still are part of public discourse. Contribution of later businesshouses of Guroos, Khandays, Trumboos, Bullas, Anims, Dars, in particular arecommendable.The faith of people in pronouncements of late Mufti Ghulam Hassan& his hold on Khanqa e Moula will remain associated with the town. PanditBhajan Sopori, Abhay Rustom Sopori are undoubtedly proud of the town besidestestimony to cultural fusion not to forget late Vasse Reh for hisindomitability despite physical challenges. Ganjoo family’s role in easing thecooking chores of ladies with supply of cooking gas (novelty then) is beingsincerely remembered. The honour of establishing first printing press in theNorthern Kashmir and weekly Urdu “Diler” goes to my grandfather Pir AbdulGhani. Ms. Atiqa Ji remains synonymous with educational /social works. Donningslanted caps, Prof. Abdul Ghani Bhat Sahib’s durbar in Degree College canteenwould attract the attentive audience.

The role of schools run by Jamat-e-Islami in impartingeducation to the students of the town cannot be overlooked. Erudite AliMuhammad Nadvi Sahib facilitated the reading and reciting of Holy books withease with his command on Arabic grammar in particular, not to forget histweaking when at fault. Yusuf Sahib’s well oiled manicured stick would strikeawe among students. Schools run by Anjuman-e-Mainul Islam have also played amajor role in imparting education. School at Noorbagh (Ningli) and Women’sCollege, in particular, need a special mention. The adjacent ground is alandmark as it has had been facilitating Id prayers & sports activitiessince long. Inspiration from Aligarh Muslim University (AMU) was manifested incommissioning of Muslim Educational Trust (MET) which attracted scholars and studentsfrom all over creating a cosmopolitan culture in the town. However, diminishingrole of trust members diluted the objective of the institution. Darul Aloom atMaharajpora & Tableegi centre at New Colony are the main contributors ofreligious teachers in the area. Newer institutions like Welkin has been makinggreat strides.

The town, with reputed medicos, has travelled a lot fromShankar & Jagar Nath’s mixture variants and Atiqullah Sahib’s cycle rides.Dr. Hussan Ara’s Clinic, though with inadequate facilities at that time, wasakin to Niloufer Hospital (Hyderabad) for people of Sopore particularly forthose in a family way. Tooth extraction at Dr. Bir Sing’s Dental clinic was thequickest and easiest soothing option available to agonized patients. Town hasimmensely contributed to literary works,e ducation,s ports, and engineeringfield. Names of few selfless teachers like Sh. Tickoo, Mohammad Ramzan GujreeSb, G M Bhat Sb, Sumji Sb, Charoo Sb, Rashid Sb, late Wandroo Sb, Ghulam NabiMasudi Sb, Sh Bachloo, Sh Garoo, Sh Nand Lal, Hakim Sb, educationist Saifi Sb: they all need a mention for theirimmense contributions despite some of them having worked in lesser paid period(not an exhaustive list). Town has the honour of being ancestral place of someeminent doctors, engineers, agriculture professionals not to forget FarhaPandith & Afifa Sayeed to name a few. Qualifying of a national levelengineering exam long back from a fisherman family of Jamia Qadeem with recentqualifiers of Civil service exam from khawaja Gilgit & Ashpir Mohallah needa mention. Some prominent lawyers like Mr Giryali would remain synonymous withthe town besides number of activists of Muslim Conference.

Some unforgettable characters of the town need a mentionhere. Imposing fishwife namely “Bodhi Moj” omnipresent in old market, late HajiAkbar Bisati’s present day Mall (a byword that one could get everything – frompin to aeroplane from this shop), cramped space of Subhana- the only source ofNational/International dailies /Magazines at that time (always updated withCricket Scores) even internationally acclaimed magazines like”Time”/”Spain” would be available with him. Eccentric Master Khuroo,Lenin of town, & Ghulam Mohi u din Gowhar, with wit & repartee,remained exclusive characters. Iqbal Park offered its lap to all who wanted tovent their grievances and “Shoda Cowki” reflected aninstitutionalized mode of marijuana cigarette smoking (present discourse onlegalising drugs). Incident associated with a police officer Shamji (nicknameof Ghulam Mohi-ud-Din Shah) finds references in police public relationshipdiscourses. The college ground – disputed – in view of frictions between Boys Higher Secondary School and DegreeCollege about ownership was like a colosseum for people of the town. The groundunfortunately is in shambles thus depriving the people of town from the onlyaccessible spot for relax. The baritone voice of late Ghulam Hassan Dar (teacher/footballer)compering the tournaments still echoes around not to forget dedicated LateSubhan Janwari sahib. Late Ghulam Nabi Khan will be remembered for offeringsports spectacles, particularly of football,to the town people. Writ of Shera  was large all around Samad talkies & waslive “dada” (big brother) than the one on screen. In absence of indoorwashrooms,people would undergo ordeals in waiting in longer queues to ease outat some designated points in Mohallah Mumkak, Shahabad, Maharajpora .

Fruit business is the life line of the economy of the townand has given town the moniker “Chota London”. Establishing of mandi was a gamechanger for self-reliance and the roles of late Ghulam Mustafa, Prof. War,Javaid Iqbal in particular were momentous. The internal and external factors,however, took a heavy toll on its fructification.The contribution of somefamilies associated with the business prior to 1947, like Bhat family, alsoremained exemplary not to overlook the fruit producers of adjacent villages particularlyof Seelu, Nowpora & Zaingair who have had been immensely supporting theeconomy of the town.

The fish business also has remained stagnant as it continuesto remain under informal sector like apple. The people of town, however,continued to diversify their economic activities and made a mark inpharmaceutical distribution sector also.The famous New Light hotel had been theonly outing for relishing restaurant cuisines besides had facilitatedestablishing of Shahabad mohallah for the neglected class.

(To be continued)

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