The mighty Himalayas are endowed with beauty and magnificence that have enthralled humans since their dawn on Earth. Man has looked in awe at its seemingly insurmountable peaks and wondered to conquer them and unlock nature’s secrets hidden in their nooks and crevices.
However, on revelation, he was surprised to witness the invisible suppleness with which these ostensibly austere majestic mounds of Earth nurture the richness of life’s diversity. He hoped to find food and medicine that might foster and protect his species and so the quest to bring back home nature’s treasure began. In the vastness of vegetation that he discovered were these meek plants that modestly retired in their niches enjoying the sunshine, the water, the air and the camaraderie of similarly reticent species.
However, equally ruthless were the antagonism of unrestrained fellow species and the harshness of forces of nature that toughened these laid-back species from inside. These plants refused to grow anywhere else than their place of birth and rearing, and became available to only those who reached them, who took only what they had to offer and who never exploited.
These were the tribes and communities that shared habitat with the mountainous flora and knew the art of living in harmony with them. Others in the world, very late, came to know these species by the adjectives of ‘underutilized’, ‘underexploited’, ‘underprivileged’ and ‘minor’ plants. These vegetable species as we know them today are highly valued for food, medicinal and ethnocultural uses in their niches of adaptation.
Compared to common vegetables, these species have much higher and diverse functional compounds capable of preventing and curing innumerable human diseases while providing exceptional nourishment.
As the long era of monoculture, wherein only few vegetables remained on the scene of world production and consumption, began to reveal its inadequacy in countering ‘hidden hunger’ (micronutrient deficiencies) and preventing various human and animal disorders, need was felt to explore and identify newer species for inclusion into mainstream horticulture.
Also, these species could create income opportunities for tribal people, conserve endangered biodiversity through gene/field banks and enhance germplasm richness for use by future generations.
To hit these targets, Indian Agricultural Research Institute, New Delhi started working in 1960s on identification and exploration of underutilized crops under the aegis of Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR). The work was further encouraged in 1980s by All India Coordinated Research Project on Underutilized and Under Exploited Plants by ICAR’s National Bureau of Plant Genetic Resources, New Delhi. This project has since been instrumental in exploring, collecting and conserving underutilized crops across India.
India is rich in underexploited floral biodiversity, the largest of which occurs in the Himalayas. Embedded in its Western part, Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh cover 40 per cent of Indian Himalayas. This region dwells between 300 meter and 7000 meter height above mean sea level and is host to many underutilized vegetable species that are mostly leafy and to some extent of bulbous and stem category.
They are adapted to extremes of freezing temperatures of around -40 °C of Drass and drought conditions of just 102 mm precipitation in Leh. Few of them are very expensive in local markets because of specialized use in popular Kashmiri cuisine ‘Wazwan’ and gourmet dishes. These species have ethno-botanical importance and are consumed as food and in Amchi or Sowa Rigpa system of medicine synonymous to Tibetan medicine practiced in Ladakh.
The rest of the 60% Indian Western Himalayas are encompassed by Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and temperate NE region. This belt lies below Kashmir and Ladakh but hosts the highest point of India, ‘The Kanchenjunga massif’ at 8000 meters above mean sea level. It also nurtures hundreds of identified valuable wild plant species, which are consumed as vegetables and medicine by local tribes and communities.
The most popular indigenous vegetables of Kashmir, mountainous Jammu and Ladakh, which are, however, nationally underutilized, belong mostly to Brassica and Allium species along with many weedy and some aquatic species. The most common of these are discussed here mainly for their nutritional and therapeutical importance.
Kale (haaq)
Kale is probably the most relished vegetable in Kashmir. It is locally known as haaq and all forms of Kashmiri haaq are Acephala group of species Brassica oleracea. This thick leafy vegetable exceptionally tolerant to freezing temperatures is known to the world as ‘Queen of Leafy Vegetables’ by virtue of its way more superior nutritional profile and functionality compared to other members of its category. If cooked moderately, this super food is highly functional because of excellent contents of vitamin K, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), provitamin-A, vitamin B6, carotenoids, phenolics, chlorophyll, folate, iron, manganese, copper and omega-3 fatty acids. The most popular kale varieties in Kashmir are GM Dari, Khanyari, Kawdari, Aanchari and Hanz haaq.
Amaranths
Another haaq relished by Kashmiris is wast haaq, which is botanically a species of genus Amaranthus, so, it is entirely different from kale haaq. It has all the nutritional and phytochemical benefits found in amaranths. Regretting the ‘minor’ status of their seeds and leaves despite having high nutritional and therapeutic potentials, amaranths have been variously entitled as ‘underutilized pseudocereals’, ‘miracle grains’ and ‘super grains’ of future.
Since ages, they have been used in health restoring and health promoting concoctions, potions and confections. They are great antioxidants, antihelmintic, antigonorrheal, antileprotic and immunomodulatory agents and excellent sources of proteins, beneficial fatty acids, ascorbic acid, beta carotene, provitamin A, calcium and iron. Amaranths eaten elsewhere are green but the benefits of eating deep purple wast haaq of Kashmir are even more, as the antioxidant pigment anthocyanin scavenges away free radicals responsible for ageing and degenerative diseases.
Untapped wild plants
Many plants outside human care can grow very well on minimal support because they have exceptional adaptation to the climate. These plants are the most accessible yet readily underrated wholesome foods, which don’t only provide nutrients but are highly functional to prevent carcinogenesis (cancer), diabetes, neurodegenerative and many other diseases that are becoming increasingly rampant in modern populace. Many such plants derogated as ‘weeds’ in agricultural terms are fondly eaten in Jammu & Kashmir, among which nunnar (Portulaca oleracea) grows profusely in main crops and fallow lands. Oblivious to most, this wonder ‘weed’ is power house of omega-3 fatty acid known to laymen as ‘good cholesterol’. A rich source of ascorbic acid, provitamin A and minerals like potassium, magnesium and calcium, it has significant antioxidant and medicinal potential and seen as prospective herbal source of health benefits. Another species locally called Hannd (Taraxacum officinale) is excellent antioxidant, diuretic, antitumor and anti-inflammatory agent by virtue of luteolin, caffeic acid and cholorgenic acid present in it. Sonchal or swatsal (Malva sylvestris), globally known as Mallow, a perennial plant is another untapped species greatly relished by locals of Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh. Its antioxidant activity is comparable to that of spinach. An antibacterial and antifungal, it is a good source of omega fatty acids, calcium and potassium. Abuj (Rumex obtusifolius), a wildly growing plant with sour taste owing to presence of oxalic acid has been documented as medicinal herb to treat many human and animal disorders most commonly skin eruptions, boils, burns, blisters and scalds. Its root is used to treat jaundice and whooping cough. Many studies have demonstrated its antibacterial, antiviral and free radical scavenging activity. However, on the downside, excess and undercooked consumption of this herb may aggravate gout, kidney stones, arthritis and rheumatism and may fix some minerals to render them unusable in the body.
Bulbs
Many bulbous species grow wild in Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh that have condiment and medicinal values. But among them Pran (Allium cepa var. proliferum), an expensive flavoring ingredient, is very specific to Kashmiri cuisine. It bears resemblance with multiplier onion; however, the bulb shape is oval and aroma is stronger. It is known to be antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, expectorant, diuretic, hypoglycaemic and hypotensive.
Nadru
The world-famous Dal lake of Srinagar hosts an underexploited vegetable that is, however, not strictly local. Nadru, stem of lotus plant (Nelumbo nucifera), which is an aquatic species found in abundance in various lakes of Jammu and Kashmir, most popularly Dal also grows in the water bodies elsewhere. However, its consumption is comparatively more regular and higher in Kashmir. This water inhabiting plant is recommended for treatment of goiter because of high iodine content and has anticancer, antioxidant, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, antipyretic and diuretic properties.
Underutilized vegetables of Ladakh
Ladakh being an arid cold desert is hostile to most of the vegetation. The inhabitants make the most of whatever Mother Nature has to provide. They carefully harvest and preserve the eatable plants during short months of warmth and consume them in various forms during long harsh winters. Shephard’s purse, Shamsho (Capsella bursa-pastoris) is one such weed whose leaves are cooked or eaten raw by Ladakhis. This species is particularly known for its medicinal, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antibleeding, anticarcinogenic and nutritional (high provitamic A, ascorbic acid, omega 3 fatty acids, proteins) properties. Shangsho (Lepidium latifolium) is another species used in popular dish Shangsho chonma. It is known for its antioxidant and anticarcinogenic properties and has great nutritional profile that consists of proteins and beneficial fatty acids. Skotche (Allium przewalskianum) also called jimbu in Nepal and NE India, is a wild species of onion family Alliaceae. Here, it is consumed as flavoring agent in place of onion and to relieve stomach pain.
Underutilized vegetables of rest of Himalayas
Large portion of underexploited vegetable flora of Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and North-East is same as Kashmir and Ladakh, which include frost hardy species of Lahaul Spiti, high mountains of Kumaon and Garhwal and temperate areas of Arunachal Pradesh and Sikkim. However, some species like amaranth are particular to this region. Two Amaranth species Jangli chulai (Amaranthus viridis) and Kanta chulai (Amaranthus spinosus) grow as weeds in cultivated and fallow lands and locals consume their leaves in cooked form. Another leafy vegetable Bathu (Chenopodium album Linn.) belonging to family Chenopodiaceae is consumed sole or in combination with other leaves. It is a short stature weedy species that contains high amounts of proteins and balanced amino acids, especially lysine and methionine and has high amounts of fibre, iron, ascorbic acid, carotenoids and phenolics to act as highly nutritious and functional food.
Also, it is sperm immobilizer and contraceptive in nature. An onion like species known by the name of Zimu (Allium tuberosum) is also very common in this region for imparting pungency and flavor to dishes. Chala (Nasturtium officinale) commonly known as watercress is an aquatic Brassica species valued for its strong mustardy flavor and cooked as saag by locals. Glucosinolates, carotenoids, chlorophyll, ascorbic acid, provitamin A, vitamin E, lutein and zeaxanthin are antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory while richness in iron, calcium, iodine and folic acid makes it an excellent source of nutrition.
An onion like wild species known locally as Piyaji (Asphodelus tenuifolius) is a species of Asphodelaceae and also called wild onion. It has condiment as well as medicinal importance due to antioxidant, diuretic, antipyretic and anti-inflammatory properties. A vegetable fern called Lungru/Kasrod (Diplazia esculentum Retz.) belonging to family Athyriaceae is greatly savored in Himachal Pradesh. Its unopened curled fronds consumed by boiling, frying and pickling are laxative, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anthelmintic and antimicrobial and contain folic acid, calcium, iron and phosphorus in high amounts.
Duna (Allium humile Kunth.), a wild species genetically related to onion grows in temperate and cold semi arid valleys and mountains. To some extent it is grown in kitchen gardens for domestic consumption, especially in Ladakh, Lahaul Spiti, Kumaon and Sikkim. Apart from flavoring the food, it is also used as alternative medicine for infectious diseases and as analgesic. Jambu and Faran (Allium consanguineum and Allium wallichii Kunth.) grow wild in Ladakh and Uttrakhand and collectively called so in local languages of Garhwal and Kumaon. The aerial parts; stems and leaves are used as condiment and spice and as alternative medicine in Tibetan, Amchi and Unani systems. In niche markets, it is sold and consumed afresh as well as dehydrated. All the health and nutritional benefits of Alliaceae family can be found in these species.
Realizing the importance of these species from perspectives of health, nutrition and a source of livelihood for tribal communities, preparing a roadmap for bringing them into routine cultivation and commerce is much called for. India is one of the biggest markets as well as supplier of modern worlds’ escalating demands for herbal food additives, diet supplements and health promoting, anti-aging, beauty enhancing agents and anticarcinogenic formulations.
The rich flora biodiversity of Indian Himalayas and trans-Himalayas are enough to provide for China and Europe, the other biggest markets. However, current research on bioactivity of herbs is insufficient and no proper regulatory and legal framework at international level is in place. This has created a lapse in standardization of effective medicinal formulations.
Sub-standard formulations result in products with dubious effectiveness. Nevertheless, research and development work in isolation of bioactives, understanding of their therapeutic mode of action in human body by using in vitro, in vivo and in silico systems is underway.
Also, genetics of their inheritance is being studied to help breed for higher concentrations in plant for industrial applications. Currently, many drugs and products are available on the market in over-the-counter as well as prescription module. The most consumed products include diet supplements (like lycopene, chlorophyll, beta-carotene, folic acid, multivitamins and minerals) and beauty products (essential oils, pigments and dyes) in powder, pill, and liquid form. It is evident that these species have immense potential in man’s holistic health management while satiating his appetite.
But to avail this privilege, efforts need to be made. Possibly, at least minimal technical help, incentives and facilities to cultivate and supply may be provided to the underprivileged tribes and communities of habitable Himalayas to help secure their livelihood while making the most of this gift of nature.
Dr. Geetika Malik, Scientist, ARS, ICAR-Central Institute of Temperate Horticulture, Srinagar