Throughout the world, some cities have markets and lanes which have carved a name that is famous and have an aura and majesty. Be it the Champs-Elysees Avenue of Paris, Via Monte Napolean in Milan, Ginza in Tokyo, Fifth Avenue in New York or our very own Connaught Place, Chandni- Chowk and GK markets in Delhi, each of these is iconic and elite.
Here in Kashmir we do have few markets which are historic, famous and worth a go but have been lost in the agonies of time and conditions. But one that is set apart from many is the ‘Polo- View Lane & Market’ that has an essence which is undoubtedly majestic, eye catching and worth showcasing to everyone. Though not huge but considering the small city of Srinagar it simply is amongst the best.
Situated in the heart of the city, this market is on the western edge of the famed Polo ground. This market has come up by default in 1954, after a fire broke in a shopping area situated on the bund near Lambert lane, razing scores of shops to ashes.
The then Prime Minister of Kashmir out of compassion allotted the western end of polo ground to these shop keepers for rehabilitation. Wooden structures were erected, 35 in total from one end to another, Maulana Azad to Residency road to be precise. 33 of these were of same dimension and 2 were bigger.
These were allotted primarily to set up shops showcasing Kashmiri arts and crafts. As ill luck would have it the Maulana Azad end of this market again was destroyed in fire few years later and this time around the authorities allowed the shops to be redone in concrete with few floors added on top.
On the opposite side towards the Maulana Azad road end was the Gussaen Lane with few shops from K Salama to Gold Dust Inn and famed Rajab motors in between.
And towards the Residency road end was the famed Amlal Mattoo’s building housing famous Dr Ali Jan’s clinic and the La Belle café. With time these shops opposite to the polo view lane slowly got amalgamated in the Polo View market.
As of now there are about 35 shops on Polo Ground side (few of these split into two’s) and 20 on the side opposite. The top floors have been converted into office spaces for tour and travel operators, personal chambers or extension of the shops.
There is a shop- less area on opposite side that houses few buildings that have served as ministerial bungalows and few departments in the past and presently house the Kashmir Press Club and the Estates Office. In the middle of this lane on the divider are six Chinars that give the much needed shade and elusiveness that many a market aim for. During summers the Chinars shade and umbrella the area while as in winters the naked Chinars pour in a different look.
Likely, under the influence of Englishmen the name of somethese shops are different and exclusive, Cheerful Chippinndale,Trueman, Topman, Butterfly,Sunbeams,Elegant, Legend, Nik- Nax,Samson, Honest Injin, Beauty corner. While some have stuck to their original Kashmiri name orsurname like M Sidiq, MD Furriers, Amin Bin Khaliq, Mahad Joo, Khawja Samad, TK Raina, K Salama,G M Shah, Gane- sons, Ali Baig to name a few. With most ofthe shops having the Kashmiri arts and crafts, few others are non arty yet arecatchy.
Few decades back most locals would not dare to walk thismarket not to talk about going inside the shops, for it was considered anexpensive market for tourists only. With custom designed tailoring, exquisiteKashmiri arts and crafts on display, eye catching papier mache and shawls/suitsin showcases; it seemed beyond common mans reach and desire. But with theplunge in tourist foot fall and financial stability, nowadays majority ofbuyers are locals only.
This market is exclusive and just walking and window shopping gives one a feel that is soothing to heart and eyes. The shops are colorful, attractive and a visual delight. A walk on the footpath of this market as the sun sets and the shops are lit up with the show cases having the paraphernalia , shining as bright as the Alladin’s bounty.
Just enter one of the shops evening time, be it the papier mache or wood carving or the many shawl/suit shops, one gets mesmerized by the sheer colorful delight these offer. Considering the overall situation over last 3 decades some shops have been sold out or redone and have changed their business as per the local needs – footwear, computers, pharmaceuticals, readymade garments and stationery.
This small place has its own issues of parking andlimitation to extend but at least we can aesthetically make it look better bymaking it a complete face to face two lanes with shops exclusively doing artsand crafts only. Also we could add to the grandeur by building more shops onthe opposite empty space of Press club and the SSB building. Make shops moreuniform in appearance, hoardings and color combo.
With the bund losing its erstwhile sheen and less chances ofits rebirth, with some efforts put in by the authorities and the shop keeperswe can still do a lot to bring polo-view market onto the world map. It may notbe that big and vast but still in a small town like Srinagar it is our ownChamps Elysees.
(Dr Muzafar Maqsood Wani is Consultant Nephrologist, SKIMS, Soura)