Srinagar, Feb 22: A colourful trail of threads leads to the dyeing unit of Muhammad Yousuf Rangrez at Bohri Kadal situated in the heart of Downtown Srinagar.
This unit, with a history spanning over a century is renowned for bringing life to colourless threads.
60-year-old Rangrez has been dyeing threads for 40 years. Yousuf is an expert in the art of colouring threads, bringing them to life with vibrant hues. Over the years, he has perfected his craft using traditional methods passed down through generations. Despite his age, Yousuf’s passion for dyeing remains strong, and he continues to pour his heart and soul into each batch of threads he colors, ensuring the beauty and quality of his work shine through.
“Dyeing is the only job my family has done for many generations. My father, grandfather, great-grandfather, and others in my family were all dyers. Bohri Kadal used to be the centre for dyers. Our shop was the most popular in the area because most customers chose to have their yarn and thread dyed by my father, who was an expert dyer,” he said.
Yousuf explains that dyeing is crucial for Kashmiri crafts, as the colourful threads they produce are used to embroider shawls and other handmade items. This job requires a lot of hard work and commitment. In his dyeing process, Yousuf adds a considerable amount of dye to a big tumbler of boiling water. Then we use a wooden pole to move the bunch of threads inside, ensuring they absorb the dye properly. Acids are also used to help the thread hold the dye. After dyeing, the thread is rinsed in clean water to remove excess dye and acid before being laid out to dry on a wooden plank,” he added.
The raw materials required, like thread and dyes, are brought from different places across the country like Rajasthan, Badhori, Bikaneer, and others.
Nowadays, chemical dyes have taken the place of natural plant-based dyes. In the past, our elders would go to villages to collect herbs, which were then boiled in water by women at home. Yousuf mentioned that these plant-based dyes were not only environmentally friendly but also gentle on the hands. Additionally, we didn’t compromise the quality of the fabric or thread they were using.
Yousuf explains that herbs like Veere Moul, Doun Gular, and Doun Kange were used to make dyes in the past. These natural dyes were safe and had no harmful effects. However, modern dyes contain chemicals and acids that can harm the lungs. This highlights the change towards using chemical dyes and the difficulties faced by traditional dyers.
“After working all day in the shop, enduring the heat from boiling coloured water, I earn between Rs 1300 and Rs 1500. After subtracting the costs of colors, electricity, and water, I don’t make much money for all the hard work,” Yousuf explains.
Yousuf is one of the last dyers keeping the family craft alive. Yousuf’s children are well settled. Yousuf’s two sons are doctors, so he doesn’t have anyone to continue this craft. He regrets that the shop will eventually shut down one day because neither of his two sons will carry on the family tradition.
Even though he’s encountered many challenges, he still holds on to hope. “I would feel sad if I had to shut down the shop. I want this shop to keep running even after I am gone,” he said in an emotional tone.