Winter in Kashmir valley is a period that most residents do not look forward to because of the extremes of cold, being indoors mostly and the associated health problems. A number of us try to escape to warmer places like Jammu but the large majority continues to be in valley braving the cold.
The coldest part Chillai Kalan, the forty days of intense cold starts from 21st December to 31st January, followed by 20 days of Chillai Khurd (small cold) Feb 19th and then 10 days of baby cold till March 2nd ,Chillai Bache, before the blooming of life in spring is a part of our life.
Cold and chill apart, kitchen continues to be the heart of the Kashmiri home and it becomes more so in winters. There is ample time and the “daan” (Kashmiri traditional stove) with its twin stoves (Chaer in Kashmiri) ignited by fire wood placed in one inlet) is always ready to oblige long hours of cooking despite the shortages of electricity.
While “Choet” (Kashmiri round bread) is there in all the seasons for the breakfast its accompaniments change.
Harissa: It becomes the breakfast dish on selected days. The term is a borrowed one from Arabia where “Harassa” a gruel of wheat, butter, meat and aromatic spices. Harees is a popular dish known in Arabian states of the Persian Gulf. It is consumed especially in the month of Ramadan and is called Harisa as an Armenian dish from the plains of Ararat. Harissa in Kashmir became established as a breakfast delicacy during the time of Moghuls.
It is a traditional dish made by specialised cooks called harisaguyr who are based historically at Saraf Kadal and Ali Kadal areas of the downtown of Srinagar, though now extended to other areas too. The cooks start cooking it late in the evening and mix the ingredients including the rice, condiments, delicate spices and legs of goat in large earthen ware vessel” Degs”.
They then let it cook on sim fire for at least 6 to 8 hours. This is the time when the “wosta” (chef) dozes off for 3 to 4 hours till 4 am. The labour starts now, the bones have already separated off and are removed and the contents are stirred and simultaneously mashed till it becomes a thick paste.
At this stage boiling and smoky mustard oil and some milk is poured while the wooden masher is continuing to stir. Small kebabs are made to be served along with and also a small serving of Methi (lamb’s intestines cooked in fenugreek) and tempered onion rings. It is served steaming hot with, a sprinkling of flaming mustard oil. No beverages are served along with it. It is a concentrated and focussed treat of Harissa. This real treat during the coldest month of Chillai Kalan is full of fat and calories to give real warmth during the freezing temperatures.
Other classical savouries
The better communications with plains of India have resulted in all the vegetables to reach the valley but the good old curries of locally improvised dried vegetables continue to be consumed more as novelties and traditional delicacies. Sun dried vegetables “Hokh e Syun” was a boon from ancient times even to present one. The produce from kitchen gardens which are becoming a rarity now. However, fresh available vegetables bought from the market of good quality are dried. The drying technique depends on the vegetable. In general, these are cut in a particular way and then stitched on to a thick cord of string and then sun dried. All these vegetables have a suffix “hatchi”.
Wangan Hatchi: These are dried brinjals/ egg plants, each split into 4 but the stalk kept intact which is pierced and mounted on a thick string. It is then hung on a cloth line or a wooden window exposed to hot summer sunlight. It is cooked with moong dal, gram or with tamarind “ Choke wangan hatchi”.
Al Hatchi: These are dried long and thick slices of gourd (ghiya). The drying method is the same as of Wangan Hatchi. These are cooked with gentle spices or with mutton as a curry.
Runwangan Hatchi: These are dried tomatoes. Dried in a distinct way sometimes seasoned with salt or mild herbs. These have a distinct crunchy taste and added to other vegetables or hokh e syun. Some cooks powder them and add as a spice to food.
Handh or Dandelion leaves: is a wild leafy green known for its medicinal values in treating liver, digestive disorders, common cold and backache. It is also dried for winter cooking. Often cooked with chicken and served to women who have given birth to an infant. It, is believed to be providing warmth to both the mother and the child. “Handh- batta” is like a feast to mark the occasion.
Nadeir Monjee: This is the Kashmiri version of French fries. This delicacy is made with lotus stems cut into slender fries like shapes, which are dipped into a batter of gram flour and rice flour and then deep-fried in mustard oil with a pinch of salt. The crispy outer texture of these tasty fritters leaves behind a taste that’ll keep you craving for more.
Hogadda, especially Farrigad (Smoked fish). These fish are put on grass before smoking them. The grass is then torched to smoke the fishes on it. The smoke keeps billowing until these get roasted. These fishes are not cleaned and are roasted along with their belly etc before roasting. Hogadda and Haakh but even more delicious with Buem ( a variety of dried haakh only )is really a treat forgotten in most homes. Buem is still available in a few selected places in downtown.
Shab Deg: The mere mention of it makes one nostalgic and leads to stimulation of the taste buds. It means overnight cooking. (Shab =night and Deg = heavy bottomed earthen ware or haandi). It is a traditional preparation consisting of turnip balls, mutton, grounded meat and blend of spices, including saffron, almonds cooked slowly or stewed over night to make it into a thick gravy. While cooking the lid of the pot is not opened and left as such till morning. It is best served with freshly cooked white sticky rice.
Vegetarian variant of it is by adding Rajmah (kidney beans) instead of meat to it. The other art of cooking it remains the same.
Siberian duck (Pachin/ shikar): The king of the winter cuisine in Kashmir is the Pachin also called the shikar. These migratory birds come in hordes to all the lakes of the valley from snow bound areas like Siberia especially seen around the Dal-lake near the city. Meat of these ducks is a winter delicacy. It is deep fried and cooked with hot spices. The meat is tough but delicious and has a warming effect. It is considered to be making one immune from catching winter illnesses like cough and cold.
In good old times there was no ban on shooting them down and one shot would bring down a bunch of them probably out of fear. It has shining bluish golden feathers and very delicious meat. Although shooting these birds is not permitted now but poachers are always on their look out and it is available near the lake.
I still remember in my childhood my uncles used to bring a few undressed ducks to us in Delhi. My mom was very fond of this meat. She used to spend hours dressing them and cooking them into a curry in our one room abode. I used to detest her way of butchering it but she would always ignore me. The whole family and the guests used to have a gala time. I never developed a taste for it.
Winter in the valley thus can be made a time to have delicious food and gossip and also make the predictions regarding the times to come. These delicacies make us forget our woes and keep us alive, in good humour and good health though often at the cost of our weight.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation