Faith is the essence of living. Religion as a specific expression of a highly sensitive set of organized beliefs may go through superficial changes but it is essential to keep the original meaning and message pure. Every religion possesses a sense of peace and purpose at its core and when a wayward society sidelines that purpose, it becomes the duty of a truly faithful to remind his people about the basic design of their faith. Basically, it is not the religion that dysfunctions, resulting in conflict and retaliation but the people who ignore the significance and directives carried in the blueprint of a divine book.
The cab driver was trying hard to speed up more and more in a rainstorm that had hit Riyadh and adjacent areas; drenching roads and building; the rain was pouring down with lightning and thunder, making travel more difficult. Back home, I had never seen cars with extra speed, that too racing so fast on the wet roads; our roads and vehicles would not allow speedy adventures but in Saudi Arabia, zooming-level was amazingly high, it would give cold creeps. With a jet speed, we were heading towards Taif where my sister, Farhat Tasneem lived with her family; scheduled together; we had planned an Umrah and had to leave for Makkah the next day. It was my first Umrah. My sister had briefed me about dos and don’ts; reminding me occasionally about that first glance on Kabah. She firmly believed that whatever is asked from God during that glance is granted unconditionally. In a profound emotional tone, she had advised me to say, “Oh God! Grant me every wish that I ask for”. But she did not tell me that the scene can leave me frozen as dead, as well. The sublimity, the brilliance, the majesty, and the command; it left me with no effort to ask for anything. I had never experienced the power of silence so domineering; there was no rush of emotions but a lifeless moment of surrender.
” There is no god but He – the living, the self-subsisting, eternal. No slumber can seize Him nor sleep.—– His throne doth extend over the heavens and on earth, and He feeleth no fatigue in guarding and preserving, for He is the most High. The Supreme (in glory).”
Even though I was numb and dazed off, God had thankfully heard the silent whispers of my heart and granted me with a lifelong commitment to stay around the sacred areas of my interest. With the course of time, the fondness grew more and more giving me a chance to witness all those changes that took place in a planned series of events for the expansion of Makah and Medina. I remember at that point in time there were many old landmark structures still present in the vicinity of the mosque that would abode a person in an unusual historical trip linking him to the glorious past. It was back in the year 1985, the expansion of the mosque initiated in 1984 was catching momentum. Buildings were razed to make room for the expansion and construction of a wide paved area around the mosque. Inorder to plan a mega mall complex of seven skyscrapers hotels just a few meters away from the world’s largest mosque; preparations were underway. Later, Makah Millennium Towers with five-story shopping malls made all the difference;, demolishing all old buildings that were part of a timeless heritage; commercializing religion at a faster speed. Although the expansion seemed a necessity to accommodate an ever rapid increasing rush of pilgrims, it gave rise to international outcry, especially from those who wanted to maintain the sanctuary of God’s house. “Formany residents of Makkah, solutions based on bulldozers and dynamite pose[d] a danger not just to structures but to something simultaneously more personal and more universal to childhood memories of home and collective Islamic history. They believed, “If you see buildings surpass the two [Makkah] mountains then beware [ofJudgement Day”]… one of those mountains have already been leveled to the ground and other is partially intact and that, means, “there is still hope”… says Sami Angwi, the famous Saudi architect with a passion for the restoration and preservation of traditional buildings and timeless historical heritage.
After completing Umrah, we were now heading for Medina, the feeling was that of a fine pleasure that sprouted out of the deep-rooted love for a city that celebrated containing al-Masjid an –Nabawi; the city that had the honor to have Muhammad [pbuh] like a radiant point in the heart of it. Medina had a serene effect, watching the green dome, absorbing the peace and tranquility in abundance, it was tranquil. In Makah God’s sublimity created fear of command, Medina soothed the fear. I remember the water body inside the mosque where pigeon would sing and dance with joy as the hearts of the devotees would while entering the sacred area.
After the Isha prayer, it would be fun to watch vendors with goods in souqal-lail, the night market that would open in the courtyard; surprisingly, selling dress materials and watches by weight; perfumes by dozens; gold shops with hanging chains and bracelets like braided ropes. A little away, on the other side of the road, ordinary shops would sell the best of French chiffons, Chinese sateen, and Japanese silk brocade at throwaway prices; bargaining wasconsidered an art of the shopping. The era is gone now; on a recent visit, it was heartbreaking to see the visible effects of recession and austerity. Saudi Arabia’s economy has slumped to an all-time low, posing a threat to economic reforms; living and business establishments. Maximum shops remain shut; construction on projects is stopped, expatriates are fleeing the scene with disappointment.There is gloom in the air and people look uncomfortable with the scheme of events that are taking place and changing fast the political and economic face of the country.
m.nighathafizullah@hotmail.com